Baking School In-Depth: Kyiv Cake

Kyiv (alternatively spelled Kiev, and pronounced “keev”) Cake, or Kyivski tort, is a true Ukrainian classic, originating from its capital, Kyiv. This masterpiece is comprised of layers of crisp, airy hazelnut meringue and a silky-smooth chocolate buttercream. The cake is typically topped with chopped hazelnuts and left to chill before serving so the buttercream develops a silky texture.

This cake was created in 1956 at the Karl Marx Confectionery Factory in Kyiv. Initially, walnuts were used, but after World War II, when the USSR established ties with India, walnuts were replaced in favor of cashews. Soon, however, cashews became too expensive, and they were replaced with hazelnuts. The cake became very popular across the Soviet Union, and today, it’s still one of the most recognizable achievements of Soviet confectionery and has since become one of the symbols of Kyiv.

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INGREDIENT BREAKDOWN

Excellent recipes require wonderful ingredients. Here’s how our recipes’ ingredients contribute to making the very best Kyiv Cake.

• EGGS: Eggs aid in leavening the cake, enhance richness with their yolks, and add structure to the cake. When making the Hazelnut Meringue, make sure there’s no presence of yolk in your egg whites and your bowl is pristinely clean, as fat inhibits
  the whites from reaching full volume.
• GRANULATED SUGAR: Granulated sugar does more than add sweetness to the cake and the Hazelnut Meringue. Sugar acts as a whipping aid when stabilizing the egg whites. Also, sugar has hygroscopic properties, meaning it can absorb water from the surrounding environment. Because of this, the Kyiv Cake will retain moisture even after being baked and cooled, leading to a longer shelf life.
• UNBLEACHED CAKE FLOUR: Cake flour makes a more tender cake than all-purpose flour because cake flour is made from soft wheat. With a 5% to 8% protein content, unbleached cake flour provides an ideal amount of protein to give our Kyiv Cake the perfect structure.
• CORNSTARCH: When used in cake batter, cornstarch reduces structure by helping to soften the rigid proteins of the flour, resulting in a soft, tender cake. Cornstarch also helps stabilize the Hazelnut Meringue by absorbing moisture. When cornstarch absorbs moisture, it keeps the meringue from weeping, which is super helpful if you live in high-humidity areas.
• BAKING POWDER: Most baking powders are double-acting, meaning the reaction occurs twice, using two different acids. The first is a quick reaction when baking powder is combined with a liquid in the batter. The second reaction is slower, occurring when the cake bakes.
• VANILLA EXTRACT: Vanilla extract is a magical ingredient that adds instant depth of flavor and complexity to this cake.
• KOSHER SALT: Kosher salt has a pure, clean flavor because it doesn’t contain iodine or minerals. It is flaked rather than granulated, allowing for more even distribution when whipped into the cake batter and the meringue.
• DISTILLED WHITE VINEGAR: The acidity in white vinegar helps stabilize the egg whites when making the Hazelnut Meringue. Adding acid helps whip up the egg whites quicker, and it keeps the meringue from collapsing once it is done. You can also use lemon juice or cream of tarter as the acid when making meringue.
• HAZELNUTS: Hazelnuts complement the chocolate buttercream beautifully and add an overall crunch and nuttiness to the recipe.
• UNSALTED BUTTER: Because butter is vital to the texture and richness of the cake and the chocolate buttercream, choosing a European-style butter with a higher fat ratio than generic grocery store butter will yield the best results. Salt content can vary across different butter brands, so we use unsalted butter to control the exact amount of salt in the recipe.
• UNSWEETENED COCOA POWDER: Also called natural cocoa powder, unsweetened cocoa powder is made from ground-roasted cocoa beans. It has a strong flavor, and its naturally high acidity gives the cocoa a sharp, almost citrusy flavor, which is perfect in our chocolate buttercream.
• SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK: The sweetened condensed milk not only adds sweetness and a divine milky flavor but also gives the chocolate buttercream an irresistibly silky texture.

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

We recommend this set of tools for our technique

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• STAND MIXER: As a precious energy- and time-saver, a stand mixer will help whip the eggs and sugar together until the mixture reaches ribbon-consistency for the cake batter, whisk the egg whites with ease for the Hazelnut Meringue, and aid in achieving the desired satiny texture for the Chocolate Condensed Milk Buttercream. (Pictured: KitchenAid® Artisan Stand Mixer, 5-Qt. and KitchenAid® Stand Mixer Clear Glass Bowl Attachment, 5-Qt.)
• SIEVE: We love this heavy-duty stainless steel strainer. It’s fitted with ergonomically shaped handles that make it comfortable to lift and hold when sifting dry ingredients for the cake layer. (Pictured: All-Clad 3-Piece Stainless-Steel Strainer Set.)
• ROUND CAKE PANS: Designed to bake evenly, these beautiful, golden commercial-quality pans are crafted of aluminized steel for exceptional durability, making them ideal for baking both the cake layers and the Hazelnut Meringue layer. (Pictured: Williams Sonoma Goldtouch® Pro Nonstick Round Cake Pans, 8-inch.)
• THERMOMETER: We use an instant-read thermometer to ensure the egg and sugar mixtures reach the perfect temperature when making the cake layers and the Hazelnut Meringue. (Pictured: OXO Thermocouple Thermometer.)
• RIMMED BAKING SHEET: A rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper is the perfect surface for piping and baking our Hazelnut Meringue kisses! (Pictured: Williams Sonoma Goldtouch® Pro Nonstick Non-Corrugated Half Sheet.)
• PIPING TIP: Using a French star piping tip results in graceful, effortless Hazelnut Meringue kisses that will add a touch of elegance when decorating the Kyiv Cake. (Pictured: Ateco #864 Pastry Tip.)
• SAUCEPAN: You want a stainless steel saucepan that will heat efficiently and evenly when creating a double boiler for heating the eggs and the sugar together in the beginning stages of making the cake batter and meringue. (Pictured: Williams Sonoma Signature Thermo-Clad Stainless-Steel Saucepan.)
• WHISK, SPATULAS, PARING KNIFE, GLASS BOWLS: You can’t beat the basics for all your baking needs. A whisk is essential when combining the eggs and sugar together over the double boiler for the cake batter and the meringue layer. An array of spatulas is perfect for simple stirring and folding the batter, meringue, and buttercream effortlessly. Using a sharp paring knife around the edges of the cake pans ensures the layers aren’t sticking to the sides of the pans before inverting. A small offset spatula gives you optimal control when spreading the batter and meringue evenly into the cake pans and the buttercream onto the cake. Glass bowls are the perfect vessels for measuring, prepping, and mixing all your ingredients. (Pictured: Williams Sonoma Olivewood Whisk, Williams Sonoma Ultimate Silicone Spatula Set with Stainless-Steel Handle, Zwilling Pro Paring Knife, Williams Sonoma Olivewood Offset Icing Spatula, 4”, and Glass Mixing Bowl 10-Piece Set.)

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Kyiv Cake

Kyiv cake is a classic Ukrainian cake comprised of layers of tender sponge cake, crisp and airy Hazelnut Meringue, and silky-smooth chocolate buttercream. Our version is adorned with elegant hazelnut kisses and chopped hazelnuts for its final flourish. It is a luscious treat perfect for hazelnut-and-chocolate lovers, and it is always a showstopper!

Ingredients

• 5 large eggs (250 grams)
• ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar
• ¾ cup (94 grams) unbleached cake flour
• ¼ cup (32 grams) cornstarch
• ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder
• ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
• ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted
• 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract
• Chocolate Condensed Milk Buttercream (recipe follows)
• Hazelnut Meringue (recipe follows)
• Garnish: roughly chopped toasted hazelnuts

Chocolate Condensed Milk Buttercream

• 1¼ cups (284 grams) unsalted butter, softened
• 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract
• 1 cup (85 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted
• 1 (14-ounce) can (396 grams) sweetened condensed milk, cold

Hazelnut Meringue

• ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
• 2 large egg whites (60 grams)
• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon (3 grams) cornstarch
• ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) distilled white vinegar
• ⅓ cup (38 grams) roughly chopped hazelnuts

Instructions

• Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line bottoms of 2 (8-inch) round cake pans with parchment paper.
• In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer or in a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together eggs and sugar. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, whisking occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer registers 110°F (43°C).
• Carefully move to stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, beat at high speed until thick, tripled in volume, and ribbon-consistency, 3 to 4 minutes.
• Gently sift together flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt over egg mixture, and gently fold just until combined. Transfer 1 cup (75 grams) batter to a small bowl, and stir in melted butter and vanilla until combined. Fold butter mixture into remaining batter just until combined. Divide batter between prepared pans (about 3⅓ cups or 265 grams each).
• Bake until golden and cake springs back when lightly pressed, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely in pans on a wire rack.
• Run a thin-bladed knife along edge of cake layers, and remove from pans. Place 1 cake layer on a serving plate, and spread ¼ cup (53 grams) Chocolate Condensed Milk Buttercream on top. Top with Hazelnut Meringue round layer. Spread ¼ cup (53 grams) buttercream on top of remaining cake layer, and place, buttercream side down, on top of meringue layer. Spread remaining buttercream on top and sides of cake as desired. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving.
• When ready to serve, garnish with hazelnuts and Hazelnut Meringue kisses, if desired. Best served same day.

Chocolate Condensed Milk Buttercream

• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat butter and vanilla at low speed until smooth. Slowly increase mixer speed to medium-high, and beat until pale and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. With mixer on low speed, gradually add cocoa, beating until just combined and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low speed, add condensed milk in small increments. Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat until thick enough to hold stiff peaks, 2 to 3 minutes. (If buttercream is too loose to use, cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes and then rewhip.) Use immediately.

Hazelnut Meringue

• Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Line bottom of an 8-inch round cake pan with parchment paper. Line sides of pan with a strip of parchment paper. (See Note.) Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper.
• In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer or in a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together sugar, egg whites, and salt by hand. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, whisking gently and frequently, until sugar completely dissolves and an instant-read thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C).
• Carefully move to stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, beat at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 4 to 5 minutes.
• In a small bowl, stir together cornstarch and vinegar. Add cornstarch mixture to meringue, and beat at medium-high speed until incorporated, about 30 seconds.
• Spoon ⅓ cup (25 grams) meringue into a pastry bag fitted with a medium French star piping tip (Ateco #864). Holding tip perpendicular to parchment paper, pipe meringue kisses of varied sizes at least ½ inch apart on prepared baking sheet. Set aside.
• Fold hazelnuts into remaining meringue. Spoon into prepared cake pan, leveling with an offset spatula.
• Bake round meringue layer by itself for 30 minutes. Place kisses in oven, and reduce oven temperature to 225°F (105°C). Continue to bake both the round meringue layer and the kisses until dry to the touch, 40 to 55 minutes more. Turn oven off; let meringues stand in oven with door closed for at least 8 hours or up to overnight.

Notes

Note: Use a strip of parchment wide enough to come about ½ inch above the sides of the cake pan. A parchment collar is not necessary; the meringue will come out without parchment by running a knife along the edge. However, the parchment will help with a cleaner edge and reduce the risk of damaging the meringue layer when loosening from the pan with a knife.

MAKING MERINGUE MAGIC

Our recipe uses the Swiss technique for creating an incredibly stable and majestic meringue

1. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Line bottom of an 8-inch round cake pan with parchment paper. Line sides of pan with a strip of parchment paper. (See Note.) Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer or in a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together sugar, egg whites, and salt by hand. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, whisking gently and frequently, until sugar completely dissolves and an instant-read thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C).

WHIP IT INTO SHAPE

You know you’ve got stiff peaks when you can lift the whisk out of the meringue and the peak stands upright when held upside down

1. Carefully move to stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, beat at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 4 to 5 minutes. Watch the meringue as it climbs higher and higher along the sides of the bowl. Stop whipping as soon as you notice that it’s no longer growing. When the meringue is just right, it will fill the bowl and hold stiff peaks when tested. Just be sure not to overwhip your meringue, which will begin to deflate and become dense and look broken.
2. In a small bowl, stir together cornstarch and vinegar. Add cornstarch mixture to meringue, and beat at medium-high speed until incorporated, about 30 seconds.

PERFECT PIPING

Even pressure and a steady hand are the keys to piping meringue kisses

1. Spoon ⅓ cup (25 grams) meringue into a pastry bag fitted with a medium French star piping tip (Ateco #864). Holding tip perpendicular to parchment paper, pipe meringue kisses of varied sizes at least ½ inch apart on prepared baking sheet. Set aside.

BAKE AND COOL

It’s time to bake off the beautiful Hazelnut Meringue

1. Fold hazelnuts into remaining meringue. Spoon into prepared cake pan, leveling with an offset spatula.
2. Bake round meringue layer by itself for 30 minutes. Place kisses in oven, and reduce oven temperature to 225°F (105°C). Continue to bake both the round meringue layer and the kisses until dry to the touch, 40 to 55 minutes more. Turn oven off; let meringues stand in oven with door closed for at least 8 hours or up to overnight. Sudden temperature changes can cause your baked meringues to crack. The trick is to let it cool slowly, so keeping it the oven as it cools off allows the meringue to cool evenly and slowly. This also allows it to cool in a more controlled environment. The oven helps protect the meringues from humidity that can cause stickiness and weeping.

MAKING THE CAKE LAYERS

Soft and tender cake begins with the perfect batter

1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line bottoms of 2 (8-inch) round cake pans with parchment paper.
2. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer or in a medium heatproof bowl, whisk together eggs and sugar. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Cook, whisking occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer registers 110°F (43°C).
3. Carefully move to stand mixer. Using the whisk attachment, beat at high speed until thick, tripled in volume, and ribbon-consistency, 3 to 4 minutes. “Ribbon-consistency” is a common term used to describe the appearance of a batter or mixture. The batter, when falling from the whisk attachment, creates a luxuriously thick ribbon. As the batter from the whisk settles on top of the batter in the bowl, the edges of the “ribbon” should remain clearly defined on the surface for a few moments before slowly disappearing. This ribbon stage tells us that we have whipped enough air into the batter to leaven the cake and are ready to move on to the next step.
4. Gently sift together flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt over egg mixture, and gently fold until combined. Transfer 1 cup (75 grams) batter to a small bowl, and stir in melted butter and vanilla until combined. Fold butter mixture into remaining batter just until combined. Divide between prepared pans (about 3⅓ cups or 265 grams each). Sifting ensures all the dry ingredients will evenly distribute in the batter, and carefully folding in the flour mixture, butter, and vanilla at this point is key to a beautiful, airy cake.
5. Bake until golden brown and cake springs back when lightly pressed, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely in pans on wire racks.

MAKING THE VELVETY CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM

Satiny-smooth and creamy, this Chocolate Condensed Milk Buttercream comes together effortlessly with the help of a stand mixer

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat butter and vanilla at low speed until smooth. Slowly increase mixer speed to medium-high, and beat until pale and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. With mixer on low speed, gradually add cocoa, beating until just combined and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low speed, add condensed milk in small increments. Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat until thick enough to hold stiff peaks, 2 to 3 minutes. (If buttercream is too loose to use, cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes and then rewhip.) Use immediately. It is very important to chill your sweetened condensed milk before adding it to the buttercream. It keeps the mixture from becoming too loose so the final buttercream is the right texture and thickness to hang on the sides of a cake.

ASSEMBLING YOUR CAKE

The assembled Kyiv Cake is a textural experience thanks to the contrasts of tender cake, crisp and airy meringue, and smooth buttercream

1. Run a thin-bladed knife along edge of cake layers, and remove from pans. Place 1 cake layer on a serving plate, and spread ¼ cup (53 grams) Chocolate Condensed Milk Buttercream on top. Top with Hazelnut Meringue round layer. Spread ¼ cup (53 grams) buttercream on top of remaining cake layer, and place, buttercream side down, on top of meringue layer. Spread remaining buttercream on top and sides of cake as desired. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving.
2. When ready to serve, garnish with hazelnuts and Hazelnut Meringue kisses, if desired. Best served same day.

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